"nothing is original. steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. devour old films, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, trees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows, select only things to steal from that speak directly to your soul".................................stolen from - jim jarmusch

Friday, May 7, 2010

chris and huge



If the saying 'the best surfer in the world is the one having the most fun' holds true then Chris and Hugeman would have to be two of the best surfers in the world. A strange prospect if you knew Chris and Hugeman. Chris, a former longboarder, now rides a Kayak after having a serious accident that screwed his knees and left him needing the use of a walking stick. This has not stopped him being one of the most stoked surfers I have ever met, no matter what the surf is like the smile on his face says it all. Hugeman is one funny looking dude, long ranga hair along with a slow eye would lead you to be surprised to learn that he surfs. But again, no matter what the conditions Huge is more than happy to be out on his bodyboard, bobbing up and down and waiting for whatever might come his way. The surf trips with them were always fun and some of the best I've ever been on. Two of those trips were to Ireland, both of which will permanently be burnt into my brain for not only the epic waves we scored but of the friendship between us. I recall a conversation that I had with Hugeman somewhere between county Sligo and Bristol on the return home from our last trip to the emerald isle. The conversation was actually Hugeman recalling a remark that I had made in Easky. Huge asked me why I had travelled thousands of kilometres by taxi, plane, train, ferry and car, spending thousands of dollars in the process to surf waves that were 15 degrees colder than those waves that I could of easily surfed 2 minutes walk from where I slept at home. I had replied almost flippantly that Ireland made me feel like a surfer. On that return trip Huge said that he understood what I meant.